THIESI

Panoramica del paese di Thiesi

LOCATION AND TERRITORY

Thiesi is an important socioeconomic centre of northwestern Sardinia located in the Logudoro region and more precisely in the subregion called “Meilogu”. Its territory is predominantly hilly, with the highest relief, Mount Pelao, which reaches 730 meters above sea level, and which marks for a stretch the entire eastern border of Thiesi with Borutta.

Mount Pelao is a vast plateau that extends into the territories of various municipalities, including Bessude to the north. Thiesi borders with this last town for a long stretch which, and in a part of territory, it comprises a portion of Lake Bidighinzu. There are several tributaries that flow into the artificial lake and that cross the territory of Thiesi far and wide.

To the north, Thiesi also borders Ittiri, and this is perhaps the wildest part of the territory, with reliefs, rocky walls, thick woods, valleys and gorges, which make this portion of the territory very fascinating from a naturalistic point of view and home to various species of wild animals. The western border is almost entirely shared with the territory of Romana, and only for a short stretch, still to the west, Thiesi also touches Villanova Monteleone.

To the south, Thiesi borders Giave, Cossoine and Cheremule. It is interesting to note a peculiarity in relation to this last municipality. In fact, there is a hamlet of Cheremule within the territory of Thiesi, an administrative island detached from what is the territory of Cheremule, and distant from it about 2 linear km. In Thiesi, hills alternate with mountains and plains, thick and impenetrable woods alternate with fertile expanses, giving the territory, dotted here and there with important archaeological sites, an enviable naturalistic wealth.

Near Mount Majore there is a cave of the same name. It is also known as a sinkhole, perhaps because of its difficult to locate access, which is a small cavity immersed in the woods. The entrance is in a corridor that leads to the main room to which several smaller rooms are connected, inside there are streams, there are some wells and water sources, but its perhaps most important characteristics are the presence of stalactite and stalagmite formations and a large colony of bats. It has a rectangular plan and a total size of about 300 square meters. The presence of water and the shelter offered by the cave allowed it to be used as a dwelling even as early as the Ancient Neolithic, about 7000 years ago, as demonstrated by the findings of ceramics inside it.

About 3 km northwest of the town is the estate known as “sa Tanca de Santu Ainzu”, a farm of about 80 hectares characterized by centuries-old woods and monumental oaks, located on a promontory from which you can admire the panorama below. The compendium includes the church of San Gavino, a well-preserved nuraghe of the same name, a stone quarry and a furnace for the production of lime, as well as all the structures necessary for agricultural activities, but also the manor house and the rooms of today’s agritourism.

THE TOWN

Seen from above, the town of Thiesi has the shape of a triangle, bordered to the east by the state road 131 bis, an important road artery that connects the town to the state road 131, just 5 km away, and which continues in the direction of Ittiri and Alghero. At the northern vertex is the “F.lli Pinna” dairy industry, while the south-east vertex is occupied by the town’s artisanal and industrial area, with important economic realities.

The historic centre is located in the south-east part of the town, in the area commonly known as “Rochitas”, characterized by narrow, paved streets, and which includes the parish church of Santa Vittoria, the so-called “Carrela ’e Puttu” (the street of the well), where there was actually a well from which the population drew water in the past, and which culminates in the square where today’s town hall is located. This square, dedicated to the Fallen in War, is a small open-air museum with the War Memorial in its centre. The town hall itself was built on the ruins of the baronial palace, once called “Su Palatu”, belonging to the fearsome Manca feudal family and which was destroyed during the anti-feudal uprisings of 1800.

Adjacent to today’s town hall are the old civic market and the municipal slaughterhouse, also witnesses of a society, albeit more recent, in which all the necessary services were located within the town. On the west side of the square, the prison tower is still visible and can be visited. It dates back to the 15th century and was built after the Aragonese conquest as a lookout and defence point, to monitor the ancient access to the town, near the church of San Giovanni. After about a century, from a lookout tower it became a prison and was used as such until the middle of the last century, especially for minor crimes. On the other side of the square, a staircase leads to the domus de Janas “Binza ’e Josso”, a complex of six necropolises that are still accessible.

The historic centre is characterized by both simple, one-story, modest-sized homes, but also by houses that belonged to the noble families of the town. Since the middle of the last century, Thiesi has experienced a construction expansion towards the west, and this can be seen from a more structured and linear road network, which in the western part follows a well-organized grid of roads and buildings.

The town is also a point of reference, both for local residents and for the surrounding area, also from a health point of view thanks to the presence of the civil hospital.

Not far from the hospital, you can visit the Aligi Sassu museum, dedicated to the painter who lived in Thiesi in the last century, and which displays paintings made by the artist with different techniques, representing both historical scenes, such as the work that portrays a scene of the anti-feudal revolts, in which Thiesi played a fundamental role, and scenes inspired by literature, with sometimes futuristic traits, but above all with the depictions of horses often present in his paintings.

The town of Thiesi is embellished with numerous murals that often represent scenes of real life of the society of the past, based mainly on agriculture and livestock farming, traditional festivals and costumes of the place.

In Thiesi there are also numerous services useful to the community, schools, from nursery to high school, the headquarters of the police force, various banking institutions, consultancy services, sports facilities, gardens and meeting places.

ORIGINS AND HISTORY

The territory of Thiesi has been inhabited since the Early Neolithic, a period that goes from 6500 to 8000 years ago, we know this from some findings made near the current town and in the famous cave of Mount Maiore. There were human settlements even in later eras, as demonstrated by the domus de Janas, the nuraghi with annexed villages, and the tombs of the giants scattered throughout the territory.

More consistent information on the town of Thiesi dates back to the Middle Ages and more precisely around the year 1120, thanks to a writing on the “condaghe” (a religious book) of San Pietro di Silki in which mention is made of certain men from “Tigesi”, and of various toponyms, some of which give their name to various locations in the territory even today. Around 1200, the same “condaghe” also mentions what must have been the original nucleus of today’s town, which developed around a well and which still today gives its name in Sardinian to the street we spoke about above in the text.

During the “Giudicati” period, the village of Thiesi belonged to the Giudicato of Torres, under the “curatoria” (district) of Cabuabbas. The end of the Giudicato in 1259 brought the village into the hands of the Genoese Doria family for several decades, but at the end of the century the disputes with the Malaspina and the Giudicati of Arborea began. The disputes lasted until the arrival of the Aragonese in 1436 who conquered the fiefdom called “Montemaggiore”, which also included the villages of Cheremule and Bessude, and which was assigned to the Manca family, dukes of Asinara.

As in other fiefdoms, living conditions were not prosperous, the peasants worked the land to pay high tributes to the feudal lords, who oppressed the weakest and often humiliated them. In the mid-18th century, discontent was beginning to be felt and rebellions against the great feudal lords began. As the years passed, these rebellions became more frequent and more popular, and culminated with the revolt against the great feudal lord Antonio Manca in 1795 in which, among other things, the palace of the Duke himself was destroyed and set on fire.

The village of Thiesi was at the head of the anti-feudal revolt that was taking shape, and in which the inhabitants of Banari, Bessude and Cheremule also participated. The decisive episode occurred in 1800, when the Duke of Asinara sent over a thousand fighters to Thiesi to assert their strength, but they encountered fierce resistance from the inhabitants, who, although significantly fewer in number, worthily defended their ideas and their wishes. The great feudal lord won the battle but the balance was now lost and it was only a matter of years before feudalism was completely capitulated and private property was established with the edict of the “chiudende”.

THE ETYMOLOGY OF THE NAME

The origin of the name Thiesi is rather uncertain, some scholars connect it to ancient Phoenician words, while others follow the theory of Greek derivation of the name, especially for the initial consonants “Th” typically used in the Hellenic regions. The use of the form “Thiessi” is attested in a document dating back to the first half of the 1400s which concerned the acquisition of land by the Manca brothers; so, we know for sure that this spelling is quite ancient.

Later, the “h” disappeared, we do not know why, and in some maps of the territory the wording “Tiesi” can be found. This lasted for several years, until the end of the 19th century, when it was decided to re-insert the consonant “h” in the name for practical reasons, for the correct writing and reading of the town in question and to avoid confusion with another town not so far away, which is Tissi.

ECONOMY

Thiesi represents an economic point of reference for the entire Meilogu area. The agricultural vocation of the territory combined with the resourcefulness of its inhabitants has allowed the development of livestock farming, in particular beef cattle and dairy sheep, with the products derived from these that are entirely processed within the territory of Thiesi.

An example of a short supply chain and transformation of zero-mile products is represented by the various industrial dairy production companies that collect sheep’s milk from local producers, but also from farms scattered throughout Sardinia, and process it using a key element, natural rennet, produced by an industry also based in Thiesi.

As for beef cattle, there are several slaughterhouses, some also have their own direct sales point in order to guarantee maximum freshness of the meat from the producer to the consumer. The presence of livestock has also allowed the presence of another company that deals with the collection and tanning of hides.

As for the packaging of products, Thiesi also has an important company that deals with packaging and cardboard, and finally to close the circle relating to the production and sale of products, there is no shortage of transport companies, thanks to which goods reach the national, continental and world territory.

Both in the town and in the industrial area there are several supermarkets of food products and shops of clothing, hardware, electricity, plumbing. There are two important car dealerships, an equally important artisan pasta factory, and a small company that produces liqueurs.

As for accommodation, Thiesi has several places for dining and overnight stays, which includes, in addition to a hotel, also several Bed & Breakfasts.

FESTIVALS AND FAIRS

The patron saint of Thiesi is Santa Vittoria, celebrated on 23 December with mostly religious rites, with mass and a procession followed by a small refreshment to pay homage to the Saint.

On 16 and 17 January, Sant’Antonio Abate is celebrated with the lighting of a large bonfire in Seunis square to remember the saint’s bond with this element of nature. The lighting of a commemorative bonfire is also done for another celebration, on 23 and 24 June, in honour of Saint John the Baptist. A celebration eagerly awaited especially by the young people of the town who join together in a committee that takes care of organizing the religious and civil celebrations.

The most heartfelt and participated celebration by the population of Thiesi is the one in honour of the Virgin of Seunis on 8 September, preceded by a novena that ends with the vespers of the day before the celebration. The religious celebrations include various masses and a beautiful procession with the faithful who follow, some on foot and some on horseback, the statue of the Saint carried through the streets of the town on a festively decorated cart pulled by large oxen. The civil celebrations often include several days of celebration with Sardinian poetry competitions, traditional dances and songs, sports events, and performances by nationally famous artists. A famous and highly anticipated event is the equestrian “pariglie”, in which riders race in pairs or threes and perform acrobatics on the running horses, showing their skills in handling the animal and balancing on them.

To conclude the celebrations linked to religiousness, at the end of September, a committee made up of the town’s breeders organizes religious and civil celebrations in honour of San Sebastiano.

A festival that has been held for years during the month of December, with the aim of promoting the traditions, typical products, crafts, archaeological sites, and the food and wine sector of Thiesi is known as “Rochitas in Festa”. The heart of the event is the ancient “Rochitas” district, but people can move to visit the museum and other monuments of the town, allowing visitors to discover the curiosities, history, and legends, and at the same time taste all the typical local products.

GASTRONOMY

The typical dishes of Thiesi are those that derive mainly from the work of the land and from livestock breeding. A frequently recurring ingredient is wild fennel, used as a condiment in various dishes, such as stewed lamb, and in the preparation of the typical sausage.

The first courses are mainly based on pasta, “gnocchetti”, “spaghetti”, “ravioli”, strictly handmade, while the second courses are mainly based on sheep, beef, and pork. Practically all parts of all the animals are cooked, including the black pudding, called “Sambene in Fiacca”, which in Thiesi is seasoned and inserted into a casing and cooked directly on the flame.

Cheeses play an important role in the local gastronomy, and the more mature ones are accompanied by fresher cheeses and those processed with different techniques, for example the “erborinati”, which develop moulds that give the product particular flavours and intense aromas.

In Thiesi several people prepare excellent “Impanadas”, which are round sheets of rolled out dough, a couple of centimetres high and closed at the top by a disk of dough to form a sort of filled tart. This is filled with meat, vegetables, fish, or ingredients of your choice, and can be enjoyed as an appetizer or as a second course or even as a single-portion product to be consumed during the day even outside the home given its easy transportability.

The confectionery sector in Thiesi is also very varied, with “papassini”, “amaretti”, “Bianchini”, “tericcas”, “seadas”, the classic carnival sweets and a typical local one, called “Ancas de Cane” (dog’s paws), which is a bread mixed with raisins, walnuts and fennel, that is rolled, stretched and then folded into an “S” to form what at first glance resembles a dog’s paw, hence the name.

CHURCHES AND ARCHAEOLOGY

The parish church of Thiesi is the one dedicated to Santa Vittoria. Built in the old historic centre of the town towards the end of the 15th century when the Manca family obtained the fiefdom of Montemaggiore and wanted to celebrate the victory of the Aragonese over the Sardinians. The style is Catalan Gothic. The large façade has a gabled roof with a huge decorated rose window in a central position, below which there is a small frame and a little further down a large decorated arch with depictions of saints in the part of the architrave that surmounts the large wooden door with three doors enclosed by four columns, two on each side. The bell tower has a square base in the lower part that reaches the height of the church, while it takes on an octagonal shape in the upper part with the arches that house the bells and four clocks at the top. Internally the church has a polygonal base but with a single nave divided into four bays and with various side chapels dedicated to saints.

In the southwestern edge of the town, in a huge square that overlooks and dominates the valleys below, stands the church of Our Lady of (Nostra Signora di) Seunis. It was built towards the middle of the 17th century, probably on the remains of a previous sanctuary dating back to four or five centuries earlier. The entrance is oriented towards the valley almost as if to surprise the faithful with the suggestive panoramic view that they find when leaving the church. The façade is in exposed blocks and ends at the top with a curved cornice surmounted by a small bell tower. Access is via a few steps that lead to a square wooden door with a large double-arched window above to let light in. The external profile on the sides sees the addition of chapels, embellished with columns, arches and buttresses, as well as two other side entrances overlooking the large square in front. The interior consists of a single central nave divided by arches into five bays that end in a bright, colourful and artistic apse which houses the altar and the statue of the Virgin.

Located in a pretty little square in the centre of the town, and dating back to the mid-17th century, stands the church of Sant’Antonio da Padova. The building has a rectangular plan with a rather simple facade in exposed stone, a square door with a first horizontal cornice above, a rectangular window that allows the entry of light, surmounted by a second horizontal cornice that forms the base of the tympanum above which stands a bell gable. Internally, the single nave is divided into three bays, there are no side chapels. The church of San Sebastiano is located in one of the main streets of the town, the state road 131 bis, in front of a small garden. The building dates back to the 17th century and is important because it houses the convent of the Capuchin friars, but today very little of which can be visited. It has a large façade framed by pillars with exposed stone that end in a gabled roof with lateral finishes, a small cross on the top, and a larger cross on a column right in front of the entrance to the sanctuary. The door is square and framed in exposed stone, above which there is a rectangular window surmounted by a small niche. Inside, the single nave is divided into three bays and there are three side chapels with decorations and wooden works.

Not far from this church stands another, that of Santa Croce, dating back to the beginning of the 17th century, which was the seat of the brotherhood of the same name but also of the oratory. The building has undergone several modifications and renovations until it reached its current rectangular shape that extends lengthwise for two streets of the town. The exterior is in blocks of exposed stone with some decorations, while the façade has a square door framed by columns and is surmounted by a tympanum and a rectangular window above. Inside there is a single nave divided into three bays, and it houses several wooden works, including the pulpit, the altar, and various statues.

The territory of Thiesi is rich in archaeological finds dating back to about 6000 years ago, such as the domus de Janas, of which the most famous are those of “Mandra Antine”, about 9 km from the town centre to the west. These are four necropolises, not all of which can be visited, and of which tomb number three is certainly the most interesting. And the interest is given by the architectural and decorative elements present, such as the painted walls, in which red and black prevail, the sculpted ceiling to represent the gabled roof, a false door on a wall and a fireplace sculpted on the floor. All elements that lead back to spirituality, religiosity, but in some way also to the magic of the people who inhabited them.

From the Nuragic period, about twenty towers have come down to us, several of which are in good condition. The most interesting nuraghe is perhaps the one called “Fronte Mola” or “Su Saccu”, which is actually a “protonuraghe”, that is, one of those nuraghi belonging to a period preceding the most common circular constructions in Sardinia. And this is even a unique typology in Sardinia given that it is a rectangular construction, rather than circular, which has a corridor and various rooms, as well as a staircase leading to the upper floor, currently without a roof.

Another very interesting archaeological find in the Thiesi area is a sort of Nuragic ceremonial altar found in the “Monte ’e Mesu” area, climbing almost to the top of the homonymous relief. It is a large flattened block of stone of circular shape with three small basins dug into it, two of which are square and one is circular. The three containers are in an ascending position and are connected to each other almost as if to make the liquid flow from one container to the other. For this reason, its ancient ceremonial use is hypothesized, but nothing can be said with certainty in this vast territory where magic hides in the most unthinkable places.

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